How to Lay Laminate Flooring [Step-by-Step Guide]

Installing laminate flooring is a simple process, and after you’ve done it once, you’ll wonder why anyone would hire a professional installer to do it for them in the first place.

In contrast to ceramic tile, laminate flooring is installed without the need for grout, cement, or adhesives that are set up while you’re working on the floor.

In addition, unlike solid hardwood flooring, which must be hammered down, laminate flooring simply snaps together and is left to remain in place.

Flooring materials such as laminate are not linked to the subfloor or underlayment and are considered floating flooring materials.

Installing laminate is similar to piecing together a huge puzzle, and it should take no more than one day for practically any room to be completed.

See Also:

How to cut laminate flooring

What is laminate flooring

Before You Start, Consider the Following:

The subfloor or old flooring surface must be flat, smooth, and free of debris in order for the installation to be successful.

It is normally possible to properly install laminate flooring immediately over existing floor coverings, such as sheet vinyl, if the existing surface is flat and smooth, and does not have any soft or cushioned areas.

When installing laminate boards, a simple underlayment of foam sheeting will usually be enough as a foundation.

The floor surface may need to be removed and replaced with a solid underlayment of thin plywood before the foam sheets can be laid down and the laminate flooring can be installed, however, if there is damage or unevenness in the surface.

To begin, remove all baseboards and trim that are located around the perimeter of the room.

You should also remove any heating resisters or air return duct covers that are mounted on the floor before proceeding with the installation. Sweep and/or vacuum the entire floor from top to bottom.

Tip

Be sure to read the manufacturer’s directions before you begin.

Instructions for installing on various subfloors will be included, as will measurements for moisture tests that are relevant to the flooring you’re putting on.

If you’re unsure about how to install something, ask a Lowe’s associate for assistance before proceeding.

Materials and equipment:

• Laminate flooring is a type of flooring that is made of laminate (Pergo Applewood 046019)
• molding the shoes to match the finishing putty to match (Pergo)
• Self-stick rubber base thresholds/transition strips in black, if not already attached foam
• underlayment if not already attached tape measure
• miter saw with the laminate blade set at a 45-degree angle Brad nails and a square brad gun (or
• hammer and brad nails)
• compressor \shammer
• tiny, flat crowbar chalk line jigsaw utility knife rubber mallet pencil small, flat crowbar

Tips/Benefits:

As a composite material, laminate flooring is scratch-resistant since it is constructed of a plastic-like composite material.

Furthermore, it will not deteriorate over time like conventional hardwood, allowing it to last for decades.

Installing laminate flooring is straightforward due to the fact that it clicks and locks together.

If you have a small space, opt for a lighter-colored floor to make the space feel warmer and much larger overall.

Always purchase more flooring than you would need in case you make a mistake with your cutting.

Laminate flooring can be put immediately over existing flooring without the need for any additional preparation.

Laminate flooring planks are Measured and Cut in the Following Ways:

Before beginning your laminate flooring installation, you must take accurate measurements of the area that will be covered by the new flooring.

Take measurements of the width of the room or the length of the wall that is perpendicular to the direction in which you want your planks to be aligned.

Make sure to allow for expansion of the flooring—about 34 inches is a good amount to allow for this.

Take this number away from your overall measurement. Divide the width of the room by the width of a single plank to determine the number of rows of planks you’ll need for your project.

Due to the possibility that this may not be an exact number, you will most likely have to cut the planks to fit the last row, while also providing room for expansion on the other side of the room.

Because laminate flooring is composed of a thin fiberboard core, it is quite simple to cut.

It is possible that your flooring package will include instructions on how to cut the materials you will be using.

If this is not the case, a table saw, circular saw or handsaw is commonly used.

A fine-tooth blade is more effective in reducing splintering than a coarse-tooth blade.

To preserve the planks and prevent splintering, you may also apply duct tape to the surface of the cutting surface before cutting.

Cut with the finished side of the fabric facing up.

Installing Laminate Flooring – Step by Step Instructions

Consider familiarizing yourself with the stages involved in laying new flooring to ensure that it is done correctly on the first try when the time comes.

Although laminate flooring installation is a project that can be completed successfully by beginners and intermediate DIYers, exact measurements and proper techniques are required for success.

Installing new laminate floors in your home is simple if you follow these steps:

Step 1: Confirm the flooring layout design.

Test-fit a few laminate planks to evaluate how they will look when they are installed in the room. Instead of measuring and calculating for a small- to medium-sized space, it’s easier to just use the flooring that’s already there.

Planks should be placed side by side across the room.

To install the flooring, you can either lock the side joints together or just butt the planks against one another; just be careful not to walk on the flooring if the joints aren’t properly secured.

After that, arrange a length of planks end-to-end to create a stairwell.

Take care not to nail or screw the planks together.

This would result in a lock that would be difficult to undo and would perhaps harm the edges.

Pull up the planks and place them in a convenient location once you’ve got a sense of the overall layout.

Step 2: Trim the Jambs of the Doors

In the case of installing flooring around doors, it’s sometimes more convenient to remove some trim from the entrances rather than having to cut your flooring materials to fit an irregularly shaped opening.

When you remove a small amount of wood from the bottom of your trim, it allows your flooring to be installed underneath it without any gaps.

In order to begin, place a piece of laminate over the underlayment and align it with the door frame.

Mark the location where the top of the laminate meets the frame with a pencil.

This informs you where to make the cut in the fabric.

Then, using a jamb saw, cut away the last little piece of wood.

You should be able to gently slide your flooring into the little space when you’re putting it during the installation process.

Step 3: Install the Underlayment or Vapor Barrier  

Underlayment is always recommended by laminate flooring manufacturers prior to placing the laminate flooring.

This thin, dense foam layer aids in the absorption of sound, the creation of a thermal barrier, the ease with which the laminate may be walked on, and the ability of the flooring to bridge minor gaps and bumps in the underlying floor. 

Sheets of underlayment should be rolled out and butted together so that they are touching but not overlapping each other.

The seams should be taped together according to the manufacturer’s instructions.

Some underlayments are supplied with peel-and-stick adhesive edges, which are used to attach the sections of the product together.

Trim the underlayment to fit against the walls and other barriers by cutting it with a utility knife.

Tip

The flooring manufacturer may recommend that you install some form of moisture or vapor barrier before putting your flooring over a concrete slab or another moisture-prone surface to protect your flooring from moisture.

Some varieties of underlayment are intended to act as a moisture barrier in certain situations. Otherwise, thick plastic sheeting can be used to create a moisture barrier, with the seams sealed with tape to keep the moisture out.

This is often installed below the underlayment.

Step 4: Begin the construction of the first row of planks

Remove the tongues (but not the grooves) from the boards that will be used to edge the first wall and set them aside.

Most of the time, a sharp utility knife will suffice, but you can also use a table saw or circular saw to complete the task.

Begin by laying the first row of boards on the longest wall, with the trimmed edges of the planks against the wall.

Continue until the entire wall has been laid.

Begin on the right side of the room and work your way to the left.

Against the wall, place a full-size plank with the groove edge facing out, spacing it about 1/4 to 3/8 inch apart (as specified by the manufacturer) and making sure the groove edge is facing out as well.

Maintain the spacing between the flooring and the wall by inserting spacers made of scrap wood between the flooring and the wall.

Tip

If you want to be extra sure that the groove edge is where you want it, draw a chalk line where the groove edge will be on the first row.

Take measurements to the line at several spots along the wall where the boards will be installed.

Because walls are not always straight, it may be required to shift the row in (towards the wall) or out (away from the wall) to achieve the desired result (away from the wall).

Make certain that the recommended gap is maintained, as well as ensuring that the re-installed base will cover the recommended gap It is critical that the groove edge on the first row be drawn out in a straight line to ensure proper alignment.

Continue with more full-length planks, working your way from the left side of the room to the far end.

As you work, use a hammer to lock each component to its neighbor, as well as a tapping block or pull bar, to tighten the joints as you go.

The end joints should be snug, with no gaps between them.

Rubber mallets are recommended by certain manufacturers for tapping the planks together at the ends to assist them close.

Step 5: Complete the first row 

When you get to the left end of the first row, the last plank will most likely be too long to complete the row.

Measure the length required and transfer that measurement to a full-size plank, measuring from the right to the left side of the board so that the tongue-end of the plank can be used to join the plank to the last complete plank in the sequence.

Make careful to account for the expansion gap at the wall while planning your project.

Using a circular saw or a jigsaw, cut the wood to the desired length.

Keep the cut-off end; this will be used to create the first plank in the second row, which will begin at the far right corner of the room.

Install the final cut piece into the first row of flooring and secure it with the tongue-and-groove end joint, just as you did previously. A pull bar is especially useful towards the conclusion of a row when you’re exhausted.

Step 6: Continue laying the planks of wood

To begin the second and following rows, place a plank that is either longer or shorter than the first plank in the first row, depending on your preference.

(Alternately, you can use the section of the last piece in the first row that you just cut off.)

Staggering the seams in each row aids in the creation of a more secure installation as well as a beautiful appearance.

Attempt to stagger the seams at least a foot apart from one another.

When installing the subsequent rows, you may need to jiggle the planks a little to get them to fit into the groove and snap into position.

Many manufacturers recommend that you use a tapping block or a drawbar to secure the planks in place before installing them.

These instruments aid in ensuring that they are tightly secured with no gaps between them. –

It is possible that you will need to reduce a small amount of width from your planks in order to install the final row.

When placing the final row of planks, it is beneficial to slant the planks in order to fit them into the narrow space available.

Step 7: Attach the final row of tiles

Unless you are extremely fortunate, you will have to rip your final row of planks in order to complete the flooring installation in the room.

Identify the planks in this final row that will be ripped, making sure to account for the 1/4-inch expansion gap between the flooring and the walls.

Using a circular saw, table saw, or jigsaw, cut the final row of planks to length.

Install the final row of ripped planks using the same tongue-and-groove fitting technique that you did for the previous row.

Due to the fact that you are working against the wall, the last row of planks can be a little challenging.

However, even in tight places, such as beneath a cabinet overhang, you should have enough clearance to angle the board up and into the locking position before closing the cabinet.

Complete the installation by removing all spacers and then applying baseboard molding around the perimeter of the room to complete the look.

The molding should completely conceal any gaps that may exist along the walls.

Tip

When cutting along the length of flooring boards, a long straightedge, a T-square, or a chalk line can be used to designate the lengthy cutting lines that will be used.

To mark lines for crosscuts, use a speed square or a trial square as a guide.

Professional Installation vs. Do It Yourself Installation

There are numerous advantages and disadvantages to both do-it-yourself flooring installation and employing professional flooring installers.

Your decision should be dependent on your financial situation as well as your familiarity with common power equipment.

Despite the fact that laminate flooring installation has a moderate amount of difficulty, it is a task that most homeowners can complete with relative ease.

Laminate flooring installation is a simple task that takes only a few hours, but it necessitates the use of the appropriate equipment to achieve a firm and secure installation.

It is a dry installation, which means that you will not be required to use grout or mortar when installing the flooring.

When it comes to home improvement projects, working with a professional contractor may be advantageous if you have never finished one before or if you do not already have most of the essential equipment.

They will be equipped with all of the supplies and tools necessary to execute the project.

We Have Suggested a Flooring Contractor

You should think about LL Flooring when shopping for new laminate flooring because of the broad choice of designs and materials available.

This company has more than three decades of experience in the flooring industry and is a reliable source of high-quality flooring.

Furthermore, because its staff collaborates with manufacturers all around the world, LL Flooring is able to provide its customers with the most competitive pricing.

Set up an appointment online to learn more about LL Flooring as well as to receive a price for your specific project.

You’ll be speaking with a professional from one of the company’s hundreds of locations across the country during this conversation.

Our Final Thoughts

Don’t get too caught up in the details of your cutting or tearing procedure for laminate planks.

The planks are extremely thin, having a core of fiberboard that is easy to cut through. Because the cut edges will be hidden after the baseboards and molding are completed, making flawless cuts is not required in this project.

Even though table saws are the most effective tool for cutting wood, you may also use a circular saw, a jigsaw, or even a handsaw to cut wood. Better cuts will be made using fine-tooth saw blades, and the laminate surface will be less chipped as a result.

A jigsaw is the greatest tool for making notches, curves, and other specialized cuts.

Circular saws and jigsaws cut up through the material, causing the majority of chipping to occur on the top side of the piece of work.

Cut from the backside of the plank in order to reduce chipping on the flooring surface. Given that table saws are cut down, you should cut the planks so that they are face up.

Frequently Ask Questions