How Do I Install Vinyl Plank Flooring That Is Glue Down? (Tutorial Step-by-Step)
Do you wish to have floors that mimic natural hardwood for a much lower price? Glue-down vinyl plank flooring is an excellent option to update your concrete or tiled floors on a tight budget. Warm underfoot and aesthetically pleasing, flexible vinyl planks with simple care and upkeep may last a long time. Additionally, working with the material is relatively simple for a DIY project.
How Do I Install Vinyl Plank Flooring That Is Glue Down? I’ll demonstrate how to install glue-down vinyl plank flooring in this article properly. To assist you and ensure the success of this job, I have also included a few pieces of professional advice. So let’s get going!
Video: How to Install: Glue Down Vinyl Floor
Vinyl Flooring related article Which Direction to Install Vinyl Plank Flooring
Installing Glue Down Vinyl Plank Flooring Requires the Following Tools
- White Line
- Knife-Operator or Power Saw
- Round Tool
- compound for leveling subfloors
- Vinyl flooring
- glue for vinyl plank
- appropriate trowel
- Rolling floor
Installing Glue Down Vinyl Plank Flooring: A Step-by-Step Guide
Step 1: To convert your floors with glue-down vinyl plank flooring
For the installation of glue-down vinyl to be successful, a smooth subfloor and level are a requirement. The planks won’t stick to the subfloor if there are lumps, divots, fractures, or debris.
You can glue vinyl plank flooring straight over concrete, terrazzo, and plywood without removing the previous flooring. On floating floors, vinyl sheets or tiles with padded backs, laminate, carpet, or cork; however, avoid laying these planks.
How Do I Install Vinyl Plank Flooring That Is Glue Down
Hard-surface floors like terrazzo and concrete are excellent options, but they must be adequately be prepared. Before putting the vinyl planks in, check your concrete for cracks and holes and fill them in.
Before gluing down vinyl planks, fresh or recently leveled concrete floors must cure for at least six weeks. After that, a calcium chloride test should be carried out to ensure the concrete subfloor does not produce more moisture than 3 pounds per 1,000 square feet. Ft. in a day.
Step 2: Mark the area where who will install the planks uniformly.
When installing vinyl plank flooring, an uneven border, and tiny voids may be left around the edges of the wall. By locating the room’s center and marking guidelines on the floor, you can prevent them.
Use a spirit level to ensure the new subfloor is level before marking the space; sand off any high spots to flush them with the rest of the floor.
There are side walls and end walls in your room (width). Find the length and width of the space. Mark the midpoint of each wall with chalk; there should be four marks.
Chalk a cross by joining the marks on the two opposite sets of walls. Then, trace the two crossing lines using a visible marker or pencil to create a more durable guideline. Use the chalk line to ensure a precise floor arrangement and pattern while installing the planks.
Step 3: Apply pressure-sensitive adhesive
It is time to apply the glue to hold down the vinyl planks to the floor after preparing the subfloor and getting your guidelines ready.
Learn which glue brand is suggested by the vinyl producer. For floors to endure longer, each type of vinyl plank flooring pairs well with a specific glue. It is equally crucial to adhere to the manufacturer’s application instructions, including the appropriate trowel based on the subfloor’s kind.
Pour some adhesive at the intersection of the two chalk lines in the middle of the room to start the process quickly. When you are ready to lay the first few rows of vinyl planks, use the trowel to distribute the glue across the room’s half or quarter.
Allow enough time for the adhesive to form. Who can find the precise amount of time the adhesive needs to be ready for installation in the manufacturer’s instructions? The glue is often ready when it seems cloudy, and the trowel lines become visible. It should be sufficiently tacky to the touch for the tiles to adhere instantly without slipping; do not let the adhesive dry or set the tiles down too soon.
Step 4: Glue the floors down
The vinyl planks should be unboxed and mixed so that some planks from one box are stacked on top of another. You will guarantee a more organic-looking floor pattern by avoiding laying similar-looking boards nearby.
For a more authentic hardwood appearance, you should stagger the planks so that each seam is 6 inches apart from the next.
Leave about a 14-inch gap between the flooring and the walls as you begin to place the plank to allow for easy expansion with temperature variations.
The expansion gaps are easy to create when shims are inserted.
Start putting the planks following the guideline you earlier marked as you move toward the wall once the adhesive has dried. Cut the first and last boards in a row to the same size to create a staggered pattern; the exact size you should cut the planks to will depend on the space size.
For a beautiful floor, getting these measures properly is crucial. You should watch this video to learn how to size vinyl planks and arrange them staggered.
Lay the flooring as you usually would, finishing each row before beginning the next.
Carefully place each plank in place. There is no room for adjustment once the plank meets the adhesive. Have a moist rag handy to wipe any adhesive that leaks out as you glue the flooring down.
Step 5 : Finish the installation
Make sure the glue-down vinyl planks correctly adhere to the subfloor by rolling a 100-pound roller over the final floor. Roll the machine lengthwise and widthwise to force the boards into the glue.
To close the expanding gap, you had left between the flooring:
- Reinstall the baseboard, bridge molding, and shoe molding.
- Avoid driving nails into the flooring since this will fasten the vinyl planks to the subfloor and limit the expansion of the new flooring.
- Add additional finishing materials like caulk around the walls and amenities like the toilet bowl.
It is advised to wait at least 24 hours after installation before using your new vinyl plank flooring. After that, you may clean your floor thoroughly by wiping it with a moist mop and a mild cleaning solution.
You have now installed new vinyl flooring over your preexisting subfloor. With simple upkeep and care, glue-down vinyl planks can last many years. You can use my advice to make the most of your flooring job. Look at this!
On radiant heat floors, avoid placing glue-down vinyl flooring since the adhesive cannot withstand high temperatures. Instead, a floating floor system is a superior option if your floors are heated.
Did you realize that a special vinyl tile adhesive trowel is required?
Your choice of the trowel is based on how porous your subfloor is. I advise using a U Notch trowel measuring 1/16″ x 1/32″ x 1/32″ for non-porous flooring or a square notch trowel measuring 1/16″ x 1/32″ x 1/32″ for a porous subfloor for the best results.
Consider kneeling on a piece of plywood to disperse the pressure over the newly installed glue-down boards rather than walking or kneeling directly.
Open various crates, then place planks from various boxes on the ground. A more natural-looking completed floor will result from combining the planks in this manner.
Summary: Guidelines for Glue Down Vinyl Plank Flooring Installation
Due to their flexibility and ease of cutting, glue-down vinyl planks are a fantastic option for a do-it-yourself floor renovation project. The best part is that you can do it on a budget. The planks mimic the appearance of hardwood, giving any room a fresh lease on life. Preparing the subfloor carefully is key to a successful glue-down vinyl plank installation.
Take your time with this process; while filling those holes, sanding, leveling, and vacuuming may seem time-consuming, the result will be stunning, expert-looking vinyl flooring that will last you for many years. I sincerely hope this article will assist you in installing the vinyl planks you’ve wanted!
How to Install Vinyl Plank Flooring with Glue
Because it comes in so many different types and is durable, vinyl plank flooring has become a popular choice for homes and businesses. In spaces where hardwood flooring is not an option, this affordable flooring can provide the appearance of natural wood. It can be used in damp and humid environments, making it suitable for use in basements and from the front door into the bathroom.
Many vinyl plank floors need to be installed using the glue-down method. By inspecting the subfloor and performing some essential preparation work before installing the vinyl plank floors, you can decide if this flooring type fits your space well.
Subfloors that Are Acceptable for Vinyl Plank Flooring
A two-layer construction of the wood substrate is necessary when installing vinyl plank flooring over it. First, apply a primer to the subfloor to prepare it for the glue if the plywood is porous. This will fill the subfloor’s pores and prepare them for the adhesive.
Concrete Floors Below
Installing vinyl plank flooring over concrete subfloors is a terrific idea. Considering the slope level while installing this flooring on concrete is essential. Concrete subfloors that are suspended, on grade, and below grade must all be moisture tested before installation. Before installation, cover the concrete subfloor with a moisture vapor barrier for the best results.
Because vinyl plank flooring is so adaptable, who may lay it directly over various floor substrates, such as plywood, terrazzo, fiber cement underlayment, vinyl sheeting, and radiant floor heating? However, who shouldn’t put it in over cork, carpet, laminate, a floating floor system, vinyl with a cushioned backing, or vinyl?
Instead, glue down vinyl plank flooring over the appropriate existing flooring to avoid spending hours scraping off the floor. Start the installation by removing the baseboards, then once the vinyl plank flooring has wholly covered the last layer of flooring, replace the baseboards.
Prepare the Floor
who can install the chosen vinyl plank floors on the subfloor after a few floor preparation processes? Clean the subfloor first to remove any dust or grime hindering the vinyl planks’ ability to stick. Use a floor scraper to remove any remaining staples or glue if the carpet has been removed.
Use patching or leveling compound with a cement foundation to smooth out any fractures, uneven spots, or gaps in the subfloor. For proper installation, vinyl plank flooring needs a flat and stable surface. Specific flooring requires a paint-on primer before installation. The subfloor’s pores are filled with this primer, making the glue attach better.
Make a moisture test.
All concrete slabs have the potential to hold moisture, so initial moisture testing is necessary. Who should purchase a calcium chloride moisture test? In 24 hours, ensure the findings don’t exceed 5 pounds of moisture per 1,000 square feet.
According to ASTM F2170, the concrete floors’ relative humidity shouldn’t be higher than 80%. Check the manufacturer’s directions before using any glue because these permitted limits may vary significantly depending on the type.
Material Inspection for Flooring
Following the preparation of the subfloors, it is time to introduce the floors to the space and conduct a preliminary examination of the floors. Place the flooring boxes in the room, stacking them two boxes high.
Before installation, let them stay there for 48 hours to get used to the environment. When installing the floor, open a few boxes at once and mix the planks from several boxes to ensure that any finish irregularities are distributed equally.
How to Install Vinyl Planks
Installing vinyl plank flooring is not that difficult. Who can cut it with a light-duty tile cutter, a metal square, and a razor blade? This flooring is a popular option for a short weekend room remodel because of its simple installation technique. But, of course, hiring a professional installer is another choice.
Follow the installation instructions provided by your manufacturer.
Every vinyl plank flooring brand has its own set of installation guidelines. In addition, the structure of various brands can differ somewhat. Thus it is essential to adhere to the installation instructions strictly. For example, to allow for proper expansion during the warm months, who should often lay vinyl flooring with a quarter-inch to half-inch perimeter where the flooring meets the wall? After installing the vinyl plank flooring, who should put the baseboards and quarter-round in place?
Are You a Good Fit for Glue-Down Vinyl?
Vinyl flooring is a remarkably durable and affordable option to give a room the appearance of hardwood floors. Luxury vinyl tile, another name for vinyl plank flooring, offers some advantages that make it a popular option.
Vinyl plank flooring is waterproof, making it suitable for use in any house room, even damp areas like bathrooms, basements, and kitchens. Vinyl flooring is highly robust once installed. With the correct installation, it will become a stylish foundation for your room for many years.
How to Install Vinyl Planks That Glue Down
Did you say to glue down vinyl? With so many products available today that only require a click to install, why would anyone bother? Although the installation may take a little longer, the material is unquestionably less expensive, and this somewhat more difficult installation results in greater longevity!
Let’s begin the installation right away!
First step: a smooth subfloor
Here, a subfloor that is flat and smooth is essential. Any seamless, smooth, or well-sealed surface performs well with vinyl flooring. You can remove your old flooring and use a razor scraper to remove any leftover material.
It is significantly simpler to place vinyl over tile, for example, if that was your previous flooring. Due to its thinness, vinyl flooring is the finest choice for installation over tile. In addition, you won’t have to worry about shortening doors or any other additional issues if you use vinyl.
Make sure your old floors don’t have radiant heat before choosing this option. Vinyl glue-down adhesive doesn’t hold up well in hot environments. On radiantly heated flooring, we advise utilizing floating vinyl planks as long as the temperature doesn’t rise above 85 degrees Fahrenheit.
To accomplish this, you must either lay a new subfloor over the tiles or fill the grout lines with leveling compound. The additional insulation the tile offers is a benefit, as vinyl does not need an underlayment.
Second step: Getting Your Tile Ready for Vinyl (Optional)
This step is only required if you leave your tile floors in place.
•Remove any stray grout and tidy up the pieces.
•After that, make a cementitious floor-leveling compound. Henry 555 Level Pro or LevelQuik Self-Leveling Underlayment are two options.
•Pick up a bucket and fill it with water until you can pour the mixture.
•Use a trowel or float to evenly distribute the mixture over the flooring so that it is flush with the tile tops and covers the entire surface. An even floor is what you want!
•To level your floor, put a long, straight 2×4 over it. Before your mixture solidifies, try to accomplish this (about 30 minutes after mixing).
•Fully dry the mixture before putting in the tiles. This could take 24 to 48 hours, depending on the temperature and humidity.
A layer of 1/4″ to 1/2″ plywood might be glued down on top of your tile if you anticipate needing to expose it later. Make sure that doing this won’t significantly elevate your flooring level.
Specific flooring requires a paint-on primer before installation. The subfloor’s pores are filled with this primer, making the glue attach better.
Step 4: Vacuum, sweep, and repeat!
Simply ensure no debris, dust, or other substances are present so the adhesive will attach to your flooring correctly.
Step 5: Prepare and Adhere
Particular installation instructions are provided with each type of vinyl plank flooring; follow them. However, to allow for optimum expansion during the warmer months, which should generally lay vinyl flooring with a quarter-inch to half-inch perimeter where the flooring meets the wall?
•Baseboards should be removed before installation and only put back up when the vinyl has thoroughly dried.
•If you can complete the room in a single session, spread the pressure-sensitive adhesive with a trowel on the floor. Again, use sparingly; else, it will leak between the planks.
who•If you cannot complete the room in a single session, place five or six boards against a wall and draw a straight line down the center of the end. Then, measure the distance and mark a straight line starting from a different parallel wall at the same distance.
Doing this allows you to start with sections and avoid gluing past the point where who can lay down vinyl? Then, utilizing adhesive, complete your sections.
Step 6: Placing the Planks
•If you’re completing the room in a single session, start in the middle of the floor and lay down one row at a time of tiles (who must lay tiles within 2 hours of adhesive application). Each plank must be positioned adjacent to the one before it since the adhesive prevents sliding.
•To ensure a complete bond, gently press each board into the adhesive. A vinyl floor roller is an option. To apply more uniform pressure to the flooring, kneel on a piece of plywood rather than directly on the vinyl.
•Have a moist rag to clean up any adhesive that may drip out.
Continue by measuring and cutting additional pieces to fit the remainder of the room.
Step 7: Following the Installation
•Check your floors frequently to ensure that all of the planks are tightly fastened to one another and that no adhesive is flowing out.
•Wait a few hours before stepping on your floors to give them time to bond.
•After the first week, refrain from washing your floors to allow the glue to fully set.
Step 8: Take pleasure in your craftsmanship!
Enjoy your gorgeous new floors, and show off your dedication! You merit it.
Pros and Cons of Glue-Down Vinyl Plank Flooring Installation on Concrete
Your flooring greatly influences your perception of your home. It usually sets the tone for the rest of your home because it is the first location you physically interact with. Your home’s value and curb appeal can be significantly increased by updating the flooring in various rooms, especially if you’re considering selling.
On the other hand, even with the best natural lighting and freshly painted walls, some people may find it very off-putting if the flooring is in poor condition.
However, the flooring is one of the first areas to show signs of wear and tear. After all, we walk on it all the time! I’ll demonstrate how to install glue-down vinyl plank on a concrete floor in this blog. It’s a highly do-it-yourself-friendly project with delightful outcomes. By doing it yourself, you’ll also save a ton of money. But, like anything, it will take a little longer the first time you do it.
This project will be divided into the following three phases:
1: removing the old floor till the concrete is exposed and preparing the surface
2: applying the actual adhesive or glue
3. putting the planks down
I was working in a small bathroom that was about five feet by five and a half feet in size. I was replacing old glue-down vinyl plank flooring over a space of roughly 25 square feet with old sheet vinyl flooring. The flooring I’m using is a somewhat thin material. Although it is just 2mm thick, I didn’t need 7mm of floating vinyl plank flooring because I would be gluing it down. It still makes me feel terrific and provides me with a fantastic final product.
Wood Planks (Plank I used was from a local supplier. The above one from Home Depot is similar, just .5 inches wider)
Glue (This is not the same glue I used but will behave the same with a color change when the glue is ready) (This is not the exact glue I used but will perform the same with a color change when the glue is ready)
Pro tip: I used glue-down Applebee Valley vinyl plank flooring, which I discovered at my neighborhood flooring supply store. Although you may have looked at flooring at stores like Home Depot, Lowe’s, or your big-box retailer, I suggest searching in your neighborhood for a particular flooring supply store or a reputable flooring provider. These specialty shops typically have fantastic inventory and real experts with vast knowledge. Additionally, all flooring professionals will travel there to get their supplies.
(1/16 inch) notched trowel
Tape measure by Stanley
Side cutters, miniature
Disclaimer: If you click on one of the product links on this blog, I may gain a small commission.
How to Install Vinyl Plank Flooring Glue-Down on Concrete in 2 Easy Steps
Heat gun, razor blade, tiny scraper, and giant scraper are the necessary tools for step 1. (this will give you more leverage if you need it). Since your project could be slightly different, you might not need all these items and only the hand scraper.
Beginning in a corner. I started there since I have a small doorway leading to a laundry room. Overall, I only needed a hand scraper without any heat, and the flooring came off quickly.
Move forward and raise the flooring as you go. Watch out for the drywall and the area around your vanity! You don’t want to pull too hard and ruin your paint or the walls. Take your time, then.
You can cut off or rip the flooring as you go. If you’re in a small bathroom, this will give you more space to work.
Prepare the subfloor in Step 1
Get the vinyl peeled out from beneath the gripper bar once you reach the point where the carpet will meet the flooring. It shouldn’t break when the gripper bar is still attached to some flooring at the threshold. In my case, I attempted to remove it by working around the nails anchoring the gripper bar to the concrete.
I then took off all the glue and tried to use leverage to pull the nails out of their holes. It’s not the most straightforward task to complete. Ultimately, I decided to distribute the force using two pieces of scrap wood and some channel locks. I could grasp things firmly in this manner rather than just ripping them out.
When you realize there isn’t any flooring under the gripper bar, you can obtain the vinyl plank to create a friendly, polished transition.
Step 1b: Prepare the surface of the floor
You will prepare the surface in this stage to ensure that all of the previous debris, glue, etc., is removed. Who should remove even the caulk on the vanity or along the tub?
I advise using a scraper and, if required, applying heat to clear away any remaining material. Don’t use too much heat, though; the adhesive may melt, and a mess will result!
After getting rid of all the glue, vacuum up the dust and apply a degreaser to make sure the surface is free of filth.
Finally, quickly inspect your floor for any holes. You should fill in any if you have any. Any irregularities or holes in your flooring, like mine, which is only 2 mm thick, will be visible. Utilize a skimcoat or patch that has already been mixed (available at any hardware shop), then remove it with the scraper you previously used.
Step 2:: Creating a flooring plan
Step 2 equipment includes a pencil, straight edge, glue, Goo Gone, and a trowel.
The second step will begin with you creating a plan for the flooring. You should obtain a reference line to prepare for the first plank to be lowered.
Here is how I had my bathroom planned out:
I established two reference markings, referencing the wall, by measuring the width of my planks at a distance of 6″ from one wall.
I then marked the lines for where I would lay the plank using a straight edge, continuing the line to the surface of the tub (I didn’t stop at the wall next to the tub because I could tell it wasn’t perpendicular to the tub).
I placed a 48′′ plank from the door under the gripper bar, using a straight line as a guide.
I’ll then bring in a 32″ piece that fits beneath the gripper bar.
I’ll wrap things off with a 16″ piece.
I’ll use this staggered seam to stitch everything together. So, therefore, I spaced out the first seams at 32, 24, and 16 inches.
Then, ensure enough glue to cover the entire floor before grabbing the glue that matches your flooring. I applied Bostick glue, which I also purchased from the flooring outlet shop.
A trowel is also required. As suggested for this adhesive, my trowel has square notches that are 1/16″ thick. Larger notches than that won’t work since too much adhesive will be left behind. This is wasteful, requires more time to set up, and may smash up between the planks, making cleanup difficult.